(C) Jumble Lane Printing 2020           part of Complete Services

Jumble Lane Printing The one stop place for your hobby, club, group and clothing printing

3D KITS are the latest additions to our product range. To begin with we have made items more suitable for the model railway dioramas. Scenic additions to bring a bit of authenticity to the model layout.  We have made a series of OO gauge items in 1:76 scale. They are very simple in design and very light on the pocket. In most cases the kits can be used not only on model railways but other modelling projects such as dolls houses.

We have not left out other gauges though. In most cases we can re-scale a model to be produced in smaller and larger sizes such as O gauge and N gauge. We have to admit that with some N gauge kits we might struggle due to the restrictions of 3D filament printing. However, we work closely with the manufacturers of Hunt Couplings who can print in resin with finer detail so we should be able to help you out one way or another.

In most cases we use the colour of filament to suit the product. If not we suggest painting in plastic safe paints such as acrylic. You can also use spray paints such as plastic spray paints.

Constructing the models is straight forward, some kits just snap together or some you have to glue and we suggest Deluxe Products Plastc Magic glue. This has a built in brush in the lid for the fine application of the glue.

Our glue of choice

Deluxe Materials Plastic Magic

INSTRUCTIONS

Paddling pool: This is an easy snap together kit. You do not have to glue this together but it is okay if you wish to. This kit comes in a blue bottom piece, the pool, and a white rim top which is typical of the design found in most paddling pools available today. There is no need to paint this item but if you wish to add fake water and figures this will add to the authenticity of the modelling project. An easy way to make fake water is to pour in a small amount of clear PVA and left to cure in a dust free environment. You can add figures in the PVA before it sets. There is no download for this item.


Hot Tub: This kit also belongs to the kits regarded as easy. The blue liner just fits inside the brown base. This again is typical of hot tubs widely available today so there is now real need for painting. With this you can again add fake water and figures but this time if you are using clear PVA as the fake water keep picking at it with a small item such as a cocktail stick to make the water look as if it is bubbling away. The blue insert may be glued in position but will fit snug without being glued. There is now download for this item.


Trampoline: This kit needs a little more care in assembly compared to the above kits. Although consisting of only two different parts care has to be taken in correctly positioning the legs. The trampoline surface is not flat on one side and during construction you should face the FLAT side UP so that the trampoline is upside down. The legs have a shaped end which fixes to the rim of the trampoline. Choose any stating point to glue the leg. Fix the second leg directly opposite the first leg. For instance you fitted the first leg at the 12 o’clock position fig 1, fix the second leg at the 6 o’clock position fig 2. The remaining legs are equally spaced on each half of the circle fig 3, you can equate this to the 2, 4,8 and 10 o’clock positions. It may help to lay them if a rough position outside the rim of the trampoline before gluing to see their position. The positions are roughly two and a half slots between legs.  

Once the glue has dried and cured you can paint the trampoline legs, rim and springs with a silver or grey paint to make it typical of the galvanised looking frames that are typical of trampolines found in the garden.


There is a download version of this guide by clicking here.



Market Stall: This kit is made up of five pieces per stall and there are sufficient parts for four stalls in each pack. The A frames have a shelf like edge on one side and these should face each other for the table to sit on. It might be easier to use blue tac or Plasticine to stand the A frame up during construction to give that extra hand. There are tiny slots in the ends on the table which do slide over the uprights of the frame, However these are very tight and forcing will break the frame. The glue we suggest will melt the surface of the plastic and welds the two pieces together. With this in mind the glue will melt the plastic enough for you to easily slide the table edge onto the A frame and holding it in the correct position. When this joint has dried repeat this step for the second A frame. With the joints dry and cured the roof pieces can be fixed one at a time. Mount the one roof part on the tops of the A frames so they overlap the edges equally on each end. Ensure that the top edge has just gone past the apex but only just. When it comes to fitting the second roof part glue the top roof long edge only so the two apexes are joined. This will seal the join between the two half’s of the roof. Without forcing the roof away from the frame top brush a small amount of glue on the inner join between the roof and A frame top. Capillary action will suck in enough glue to make a strong joint. The material for this model is grey in colour which will not be the colour required for a stall. The A frames and table may be painted a shade of brown to resemble wood and the roof can be multi coloured to match that of the materials used in market places.


There is a download version of this guide by clicking here.


Turntable Cobblestone surround: This kit comprises of six curved sections of a circle which are fitted on the edge of a HELJAN or PECO turntable to simulate the cobblestone paving. There are also eight small sections pre cut to sit in between the track entering or leaving the turntable. They are sized to fit within the track and leave enough space for the flanges of the wheels on the loco. Installing the surround fix the sections along the edge using a glue like UHU or a double sided tape. The pieces can be aligned and cut to size before fixing. Cut the with a razor saw, sharp knife or even a hot blade or ultrasonic cutter. The parts can be painted and weathered prior to fixing in place although with care taken best results may be found when painting and weathering in situ so you can weather the  turntable parts at the same time. This was primarily designed for the Heljan turntable and fits on the flat turntable surround. However the Peco turntable has a small lip on the inner edge of the turntable and theses sections fit neatly up against this lip.

We have two styles of the kit available. One is a plain cobble surface and one is with lines of brick raised to simulate the older manual turntables having these bricks to push against with your feet when rotating the turntable.


There is a download version of this guide by clicking here.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3

We are constantly looking at ways to improve on the designs we make. In most cases the first ones for sale are the fifth or sixth design change. In addition to the improvements and changes we have more ideas of what we can add to the collection. We will add the new items on the website when we have made and tested them and produced enough to stick on our virtual shop shelf. If you have any ideas or comments please use our comments section on our contact us page. We will look into your comment and in all cases we will reply with an answer within two working days.